The Uta el-Hammam manages to be both lively and serene. The surrounding landscape of tall peaks gives the plaza a protected, oddly cozy feeling. Beautiful pebbled mosaics underfoot contribute to the sensation that the plaza is a big outdoor room. Small cafes line one side of the square, each dotted with blue and red umbrellas. Directly opposite, side by side, are the two most imposing buildings in town: the 15th century Grande Mosque, with its lofty staircase and octagonal minaret, and the Kashbah, built of red earth walls. All day and late into the night, the plaza serves as the stage for a kaleidoscopic assortment of humanity, both local and passing through. Old men in white Jellablas and embroidered skull caps, Riffian women in traditional red and white striped overskirts and pom-pom topped straw hats, strolling Berber musicians, backpack-toting tourists, young Moroccan parents in modern dress keeping loose watch on children whose sneakers flash tiny red lights, like grounded fire flies.

The Chefchaouen medina is a pedestrian space so all approaches are on foot.

There are many local families in the square, even at night, so it feels very safe -- more women than usual in a public space in Morocco.

There are people of all ages -- the bench in front of the Kasbah is usually populated by old men who talk animatedly for hours. There are strolling musicians but no aggressive hustlers that we saw.

Tourists and locals share the space and the mood is friendly and polite.