Plaza de la Constitucion de Oaxaca (Zocalo)

between Hidalgo, Trujano, Flores Magon and Bustamente Sts.
Oaxaca City, Mexico

Contributed by Project for Public Spaces

The zocalo has been the heart of Oaxaca for nearly 500 years, since it was laid out by Juan Pelaez de Berrio and Alonso Garcia Bra

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Why It Works

Strolling down the pedestrian walkway, Macedonio Alcala, one arrives at the daily fiesta that is the zocalo. Children run after their globos (large tubular balloons), plastic helicopters and Pokemon balloons which are all sold by vendors in the open space next to the Cathedral. There are activities for all ages in the plaza, a characteristic that demonstrates why this space has always been a primary social place. Sitting on benches, parents enjoy the soothing sounds from the fountains as they watch their children play. Vendors circumambulating the zocalo sell corn, chapulines and fruit to customers at the shoe shine stands scattered throughout the plaza. Friends gather on the benches to discuss events they read about in newspapers bought by the nearby newsstands. Every night, musicians serenade customers eating at the cafes and on Thursday nights the Banda Musica del Estado performs classical music and old popular Mexican songs.

Low shrubbery allows visitors to see all sides of the zocalo and to experience the ambiance of this lively central square. At the center of the plaza is a kiosk surrounded by four small fountains and towering trees, which provide shade from the intense summer sun. Because the zocalo is bordered on two sides by a sizeable church and the state/municipal government building (la Catedral and el Palacio de Gobierno), it serves as a space for social and religious gatherings and for political protest. Its other sides are lined with numerous open-air restaurants, hotels and shops. As such, it is the center of civic life and draws both Oaxacans and tourists alike. Although cars are not allowed to drive through the zocalo itself, the plaza is easily accessible by bus, car or on foot.

History & Background

In a way, Oaxaca's zocalo is very similar to others in cities designed by colonial Spanish architects. Zocalos served as the symbolic manifestation of Spanish power, as each plaza had buildings representing the two main colonizing institutions: the church and the crown. The central square was the most crucial part of the layout of a new city, as it consolidated the rule of the conquistador. The space for Oaxaca's own zocalo was originally delineated by Juan Pelaez de Berrio in 1529. Alonso Garcia Bravo, who also designed Veracruz and Mexico City, then used the plaza as a reference point when he planned the rest of the city.

The zocalo's historical significance as a social gathering place has fortified its critical role in the fabric of Oaxacan urban life. It is not unusual for families to gather to celebrate the anniversary of parents who originally met in the zocalo. Moreover, the maintenance of the square is a matter of civic pride because the space is the location of the governor's offices and most national festivities such as the Grito de la Independencia (September 15). Hence, the state government funds many events such as the weekly performances of the state music band.

contributed by Elaine Shen

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Office of the Secretary of State Tourism

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> Add your own comment about Plaza de la Constitucion de Oaxaca (Zocalo)

10/17/02 Ashley Lillie said:
This space captures the essence of why central squares are such an important part of the fabric of Mexican cities and towns. While the character of the space may have altered much over the years, it has continued to do so in a manner sensitive to its surroundings (and vice versa).
07/05/05 ron mader said:
What was one of Mexico's most enchanting public spaces has been changed. The plaza is being 'renovated' in 2005. Locals are frustrated there was no prior consultation.

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05/09/05 Maryanne Wilson said:
The destruction of this beautiful public space is impossible to fathom. By removing the pathways, plants, shrubbery, benches and garden areas the very heart and soul of Oaxaca has been ripped out. The outcry by civic groups and individuals will, hopefully, lead to the restoration of this World Heritage site.
05/09/05 Mark Moore said:
Today's Noticias reports that the designer of the Zocalo in 1974, Jaime Ortiz Lajous, in a telecon from Tenerife, Spain, says that the Zocalo's destruction should result in criminal proceedings against the Oaxaca State governor (Ulises Ruiz Ortiz), Oaxaca City mayor (Jesús Angel Díaz Ortega) and the local delegate of INAH - National Institute of Anthropology and History (Eduardo López Calzada). Lajous claims that the Oaxaca zocalo is protected by Presidential Decree (Echeverría - 1974) as well as by agreements signed between Mexico and UNESCO. Lajous calls on any interested party to begin criminal proceedings against the 3 that he named as well as any others found to be involved. That's great, but too late. 11 of the beautiful laurel trees have been uprooted and hacked to pieces and 19 more are to be moved to "other" locations. Unbelievable.
05/22/05 Ken Six said:
Please contact me or a member of ASCA (American Society of Consulting Arborist)for Facts on how to save these historical trees. The tree that was pushed over should be appraised. The "only" time trees can be saved is when a project is in Pre Construction. Drawings can be moved on paper and plans implemented. It cannot be done "during Construction" or Post Construction.Basically if a Tree Preservation plan is not set up the trees are doomed and history is lost. Or don't do any Contruction. Thank You, Ken Six Consulting Arborist Houston TX 281.494.7400 kensix@TreeTV.com www.TreeTV.com
07/05/05 Dave Dockter said:
Ken,
How wonderfully ironic you contacted me. Oaxaca is an official 'sister city' with our City of Palo Alto, California, USA. Our program is summarized here. My brother is moving there next month and I was planning to visit him at some point after this summer.

Palo Alto Mayor Jim Burch is encouraging me to go as an official liasaion extension from the City of Palo Alto to Oaxaca and to strengthen our relationship that was established over 40 years ago in 1964. A Palo Alto foreign exchange student program exists. PA also donated and delivered a fire truck to the city last year. See press release for more info.

It is unfortunate that the tree that was knocked over, and should never have happened, but government projects can learn from past incidents in order to build better future projects. The mishap is recorded here . Saving the other big Indian Laurel in town zócalo would be a priority concern for government, tourism and resident community persons.

Building things around trees, successfully so that the trees continue to live for years afterwards, is a serious step that is not optional, but is our common challenge whether in Oaxaca, Palo Alto or New York. There are several basic measures that can be applied to any new project that are universal to any project in our respective countries.

Can you forward this message to Gisele Pérez-Moreno or Ron Mader and ask them to email me directly? dave.dockter@cityofpaloalto.org I would be happy to provide some project-specific suggestions if it can be enabled in spite of our distant locations. Local architects or engineers can also find general or specific info by checking our website below.

Thank you.
Dave Dockter
Landscape Specialist, ASCA, ISA, APA
City of Palo Alto, 250 Hamilton Avenue, City of Palo Alto, CA 94301
650-329-2441 ~ http://www.city.palo-alto.ca.us/trees/

07/05/05 Owen Teeters said:
After falling in love with Oaxaca twenty years ago I retired and moved there to live for 14 years. In those 14 years I saw the city decline including the zocalo. The Marquis de Valle hotel appropriated the sidwalk in front of the hotel and closed off access by the public. This still is public property as far as I know but maybe Herr Murat (Hitler of Oaxaca) sold it to the hotel (and of course pocketed the money)

I could see Oaxaca being converted to a "coney island south" and each weekend the restaurants and centro was overrun by Chilangos. Prices rose so that locals could not afford to visit THEIR zocalo on the weekends like they did before.

The zocalo will gradually be ruined. For years as the wonderful shade trees died nothing was planted for shade for the future. It won't be long until the zocalo is like the zocalo in Mexico City - paved over and very unattractive. This demise has all happened under the auspicies of Murat The Rat. I have left Mexico and have no plans to see the destruction of a wonderful site. I would not recommend that my friends visit likewise.

07/07/05 Joy Singleton said:
Does anyone know if construction is still continuing and, if yes, when it might end? I understand that the gov't has said the zocalo will be ready in time for the festival on July 18th. I was planning to visit July 23-30 but now am wondering if I should wait until August. Thank you for responding.
07/29/05 Victor Hugo Hernandez Hernandez said:
I am originally from Oaxaca City but currently living in the UK. I am really saddened by the act of vandalism the government of Oaxaca is doing to its city. The Zocalo of Oaxaca is the spirit hearth of the Oaxacan people. It was the place my family and I used to go every Sunday evening to enjoy its atmosphere and beautiful trees. Unfortunately this is not the case anymore.

Corruption is rampant in the city. The state of Oaxaca is not only the state with the highest number of human rights violations in the whole country but the poorest state with an increasing population lacking basic services such as clean water and health. It is an insult to the Oaxacan people that the corrupt government of Oaxaca has spent millions of pesos in a project which is not only unnecessary but also damages a world heritage site.

The government of Oaxaca has been reluctant to provide detailed information about the total cost of the project which some people think will provide lots of cash to the next year PRI’s (the political party that was in power for 70 years in Mexico) election campaign.

I have no words to express my frustration and anger. To see my beautiful city being destroyed in such way breaks my hearth. One thing is clear, whatever happens to the Zocalo, city planners in Mexico have not understood that a public space is not something simply sketched on the architect's drawing board. It is the result of years of social interaction among people of different cultures.

08/15/05 Julia Day said:
I recently traveled to Oaxaca and saw first hand the changes being made to the Zocalo. While the construction, or “modernizing” effort as many locals described it, which includes repaving the square, planting new trees and tree beds, and redesigning places to sit, continues, the plaza is open to the public and still appears well utilized by both Oaxacans and tourists. The white, concrete modern materials being used to change the plaza detract from its character, history, and beauty. Yet both during night and day, the Zocalo is crowded with families, elderly people, and groups of friends. People sit on the sides of the new tree beds to people watch, listen to local bands, or eat ice cream. I am not a proponent of the changes being made, but it is reassuring to see that even during construction the historic Zocalo continues to attract diverse crowds.
02/03/06 William Wolf said:
For more than a decade, when I talk with people who might be traveling to Mexico, I always say, "If you can only visit one place, make sure it's Oaxaca." I was dismayed by the accounts I read here of the changes being made to the plaza and park.

One site contains articles that express concern over this project, anger at the secrecy, and some tentative relief that the end results might not be as bad as many feared. The newsletter in which these articles appears seems to be reliable and committed to good public spaces. http://www.oaxacainfo.com/oaxaca/zocalo.htm

I'd like to request more information from people who are now in Oaxaca. What has been the reaction of Oaxaqueños, both that of the general public and of architects and activists? Can you include images of the changes?

04/18/06 Hannah Shull said:
My son and daughter-in-law live in Oaxaca and she is a native. My first trip to this wonderful colonial city was in March of 2001 for their wedding. Our favorite place to go in the evening was the Zocalo. I wished my town had such a great place to congregate.

My last visit was Feb. 2006. Again we spent many afternoons and evenings sitting and drinking local beer and watching the parade of families enjoying their special place. I did not realize at the time that there had been such controversy over the upgrade until I found this site. I see most of the postings were from before the renovation was finished. I think those people should go back and look around. There were a few modern storefronts that I didn't like, but other than that, the trees seem to be thriving and the gardens were spectactular with thousands of pointsettias. The people seemed quite happy with their "new" Zocalo. Kids were still laughing and chasing those giant balloons, musicians still played for pesos and indigenous people still hawked their beautiful wares.

I'm going back in a few weeks and I'll take a closer look and ask my daughter-in-laws parents what they think about all of this. As far as I'm concerned, nothing has been taken away from this beautiful city. I'll let you know what I find out. Hannah Shull

01/06/08 ron mader said:
Oaxaca City, Mexico - The photos in this set document a process of urban renovation (April-December 2005), unrest (May 2006-December 2006) and calmer times (2007-2008). http://www.flickr.com/photos/planeta/sets/512530
01/28/09 Jonathan Losee said:
Oh how lucky I am to have spent 5 days this last summer Aug '08 in Oaxaca. I had not read the posted news about the restoration of the Zocalo, and I found the plaza so charming, peaceful, and alive with good feelings that I submitted photos to PPS as soon as I returned. It retains a good number of huge Ficus trees, is bordered by terrific restaurants, filled with vendors, musicians, kids, balloons. A really fun place to be in. I got the best shoeshine you could imagine - mi zapatos es feo y sucio ( keens ) while my wife snapped photos of the colourful events surrounding the plaza. I did not find damage, destruction or degradation, just a well used, busy and very welcoming space.

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